132 5. Issey Miyake: Origami Fashion

Japanese fashion innovator Issey Miyake and his R&D design group, the Reality Lab, have created a line of eco-conscious "origami clothing" made from recycled PET fabric. Each garment is made from a single piece of fabric, which is folded flat into one of ten basic collapsible patterns. The sharp creases in the fabric are made flexible but permanent, so that as you open the garment a multifaceted 3D form emerges. This shape is made customizable by the wearer with strategically placed snaps and darts, and the addition of tubes used to create sleeves or pant legs.

The title [132 5.] explains the notion: one piece of fabric, a three-dimensional shape reduced to two, and the fifth dimension, which Miyake describes as the moment the garment is worn and comes to life “through the communication among people.” (In physics, the fifth dimension is a hypothetical extra dimension after the three spatial ones and the fourth, which is time. Some astrophysicists argue that the fifth dimension may be the universe that we live in.) ...

“These clothes are very light, like air, and are season-less,” Miyake says. “I hope people will keep them a long time, and not replace them every two months. That, for me, is the essence of sustainability.”

This construction is made possible by a 3D computer modeling program (presumably ORIPA — an editor for designing crease patterns in Origami works — available free, here) designed by artist and computer scientist Jun Mitani. I highly recommend checking out Mitani's work in spherical origami. [via Dezeen, more at the Design Observer]

Bodkin: Autumn/Winter Collection 2010

It's just barely summer here in San Francisco, so I am in no way ready to recognize fall. Though for you, Bodkin, I will relinquish my grasp on this city's false sense of sun and welcome back the requisite warm knits and wool leggings that already fill my closet. A girl simply can't have enough chic comfort, and if I had any money at all I would thin 90% of my closet and make this collection my uniform, shoes included.

The Brooklynn-based Bodkin was founded in 2008 by one Eviana Hartman. The business focus is on sustainable designs, incorporating new technologies — such as post-consumer recycled polyester — with recycled and salvaged textiles, creating "transparency and a conscious and curious approach" to the brand.

Bea Szenfeld: Sur la Plage

Swedish fashion designer Bea Szenfeld's latest, Sur la Plage, is an extension of her 2006 Paper Dolls collection. In this latest work we find a dozen handmade paper costumes inspired by seaside folklore and ambiance -- water spirits and sea nymphs, the nets of fishermen, crashing waves, seaweed tangles, glimmering shoals, deep sea pearls, and shellfish clusters.

The compact cardboard is cut and folded into tiny architectural concoctions, which are assembled together by hand into incredible creations that lead your mind to Jules Vernes fictitious sea demons.

Photos by Ulrich Lofgren. [via Beautiful Decay]

A Thing For ... Inspiration, Concept, Color

If you don't already know about Maritza Teodoro's inspired eye candy blog, A Thing For ..., you're in for a treat. These expertly curated mood boards combine subject, texture, and color in endlessly exciting ways, creating little pictorial vignettes that each capture a unique ambiance. I feel like I've just stepped out of the book, through the museum, into the wood, onto the Paris streets, and beyond the shore. Be sure to also check out her fashion blog, [design relevant].

Forage Bow Ties

Let me just start by saying that I am so bummed I did not get it together to go to the Forage pop-up opening at the Curiosity Shoppe in San Francisco [stupid, stupid, kicks self]. The exclusive bow tie line was created by Shauna Alterio and Stephen Loidolt of Something's Hiding In Here. Each tie is handmade by the artists (with love, of course) and appears in 3 limited-edition styles: Arrowhead, Cricket, or Thistle.


The line was inspired by "the personal style of our favorite mid-century artists, designers and architects ... We're in love with three different silhouettes inspired by Louis Kahn, Charles Eames and le Corbusier. We spent weeks searching for the right collection of fabrics in classic patterns and sorbet colors — just right for summer! We're obsessed with the details ... well crafted with simple hardware, vintage french woven labels and the perfect box." It's true, the box is almost worth the price of admission, as are the postcards!


You can see some set-up pics at the Smarts & Crafts Flickr. And if you want to be looking dapper, best peruse your options (and quickly before they're gone!) here. To everyone involved in this project, you get on with your bad selves and keep up the good work!

Vintage Sewing Pattern Goodness

Here's a little eye candy for your Friday. I neither know how to sew nor draw fashion illustrations, but I am completely enamored with the elegant designs of vintage sewing patterns. Most of these are from the 50s, with a few hits from the bookending decades. See? High-waisted skirts are where it's at!

Be Cycle & Fashion: Custom Bikes for Charity

Twelve fixed gears + twelve great names in fashion and design = art for a cause. Introducing, Be Cycle, a customization project whose proceeds will benefit ACT Responsible, a non profit dedicated to promoting environmental and social causes.

As a cult object and symbol of a responsible attitude, cycling made its comeback in many major cities. Very likely, it became the flagship of the new eco-committed generation. Meanwhile, fashion, luxury and design have established a real dialogue for several years with the creative and sustainable development, turning it more attractive.

The designers are as follows: Agatha Ruiz de la Prada, Ylan Anoufa, Antik Batik, Karim Bonnet, François Duris, Marithé et François Girbaud, Elieux by Kaori Ito, Jean-Claude Jitrois, Jérome L’huillier, Swarovski by On aura tout vu, Kenzo Takada. You can read more details at One Heart Channel, and if you speak French, check out the making of videos. See a complete photo gallery here. [Thanks, David!]

Steven Meisels: Patterns for Vogue Italia

Legendary fashion photographer Steven Meisel created these jaw-dropping eye orgasms for the 'Patterns' editorial in an '07 edition of Vogue Italia. More here and here. [via Look In Art]

Natalie Purschwitz: Makeshift Project

Almost 11 months ago, Natalie Purschwitz made her first pair of shoes out of leather and wood — "a rudimentary beginning" to a tremendous undertaking. Her self-made challenge, now 9 months underway, is a venture called Makeshift. Starting September 1, 2009, Purschwitz — an award-winning clothing designer and the founder of Vancouver-based Hunt & Gather — would only wear clothing she had made herself for one whole year.

"Initially this may seem like a reasonable task," she writes "but it will include all of my clothes, socks, shoes, underwear, coats, jackets, hats, bathing suits, accessories and anything else I might need to protect my body from the elements while trying to lead a fulfilling life."

As she set out, prototyping blouses and cutting out what would be sunglasses, Purschwitz was confronted with questions regarding the "rules" to her endeavor. Which materials were allowed? Did she have to make those too? What about accessories?

"As a simple starting point I will say that my wardrobe will consist of anything made by me from either new or used materials. Materials can be reused but just altering something doesn't count.

Rule 1. My entire wardrobe will be made by me out of new or used materials.
Rule 2. I don't have to make my materials, however, I will aspire to do so whenever possible."

Thankfully, she has allowed herself a few exceptions, including tools and eyeglass lens. Her success, and her challenges, have been recorded for 272 days and counting. Purschwitz is generous in her accounts, detailing techniques and materials that chronicle the rigorous practice of making. Though she is a fashion designer, it has taken an enormous concentration of energy, creativity, and determination to complete such a demanding and personal task. I'm hoping for some kind of catalog at the end of this, where we can see not only the daily shots but each and every piece she created for the project. Go Natalie!

Check out the "Makeshift Store," the Surprise! Surprise! Program. Read more on the Makeshift project here, and more on Purschwitz here and here.

Rennes le Château

Julie's "favorite materials" list begins with zakka and ends with leather. In poking around further I discovered that she is physically attracted to her sewing machine, and so nerdy she actually changed her name to Jaina (after her favorite Star Wars character) for most of her life. Oh, and she runs this little homespun project called Rennes out of her live-in studio in Boston. All her garments and bags are made by hand. Need I say more? Well, I will say that I am greatly reminded of Longchamp's Le Pliage series, and this is a high compliment. My second mom brought me back a Longchamp from Paris a few years back and we have been inseparable ever since.

You can read Julie's Featured Seller interview on Etsy, which I highly recommend, check out her shop profile here, and peruse her blog here.

Tina Kalivas: Polyrhythms

It must be spring, because all I can think about is fashion. And that welling anticipation got kicked into high gear when I saw the latest collection from Tina Kalivas, Polyrhythms. Based in New South Wales, Kalivas "trained in London for 8 years by working under [the late] Alexander McQueen, Clements Ribeiro, Russell Sage and J. Maskrey has a very European influence in her designs. She studied period underwear and corsetry at the London College of Fashion and also worked on costumes in the film industry." Read more at Fashion Windows. [via Sycamore Street Press]